Ford 1942 Business Coupe
Project update 2001-10-05 Six months since the last update. I've been busy with my day work (unfortunately ;-)) 
Anyway i have made some progress,check it out.
This is the Original position of the 42 bumper. Way out in the air.
To tighten it up a bit. I cut out 2 inches of the gravel pan. Used my homemade welding holders, to hold things in position during welding.
Its just a bit of square pipe, that i cut a slot in. Welded a small piece of steel to the head of an M6 bolt. And i use a piece of welding rod on the underside. This tool gives me a small 1mm slot. Perfect when you are gas welding. And it keeps the parts in place of course.
I also widened the pan one inch on each side. Looking much tighter or what. Did a similar thing at the rear, but I shortened the bumper 4" before i sent it to the chrome shop.
One of the front fenders had some holes in the bottom part.
First i took a steel rod 12 mm, and bent it to the right radius.
Clamped a piece of steel over the radius rod, and hammered away. This was the tricky part to do.
Then i just had to add the rest, that was missing.
 Some cleaning up with a grinder, and some hammer and dollying and your there (no grinding done in this picture)
This is how i bent the rear part of the fender Outward, in i don't own a shrink/expand tool just hammers and dollies.
Hammer time!
I also made the "original" inside reinforcement.
Starts to look ok, some bondo or lead on this would do it.
There was some other bumps and dents to fix on the other end to ;-)
Rear fender view.
Since i did not have the Gas filler pipe, i made this out of some 2 " exhaust pipe, and the bajonett piece from an Volvo 122 (Amazon) tank,
Looking original in my eyes, Actually have not seen one . but this one works! you can also see my lowering job 6 inches only. This works since i have an rear panhard bar.
 I'm planning to use the Parking lights as blinkers. but the 18Watt lamp was BIG. And it hit the glass. Reworked version on the left.
I cut of the rear part and added a 12mm long tube piece. That let the lamp sink in, and i could mount the glass.
Ready to assemble.
Its good to test the lights before you actually wire the car, so you know everything works. And if there is no light, its your wiring that screwed up.
 I have not painted the car shiny, since that needed another couple of hundred hours of metal work. I consider this a test assembly. I don't have to be afraid to scratch anything. And i can fit and adjust things properly. And finally matte black is a HOT ROD color.
One smart way is to mount trim and lights when the fender is loose. Its easy to reach from the backside you know. 
 Rear lights ready to go. Yes i had to replace 30-60 % of the tin in the rear lights to
Testing the function, this was a good idea. Since i had some grounding problem, easy to fix when the fender is loose.
Find the fault?
Did you notice the missing cowl trim. I could not find one so i had to make my own. Took some junk pieces and made this piece to hammer a bit of a door trim part on.
Some hammering and i had an original looking piece with the right angle.
I had to practice on some pieces first.
This is how it ended up. i know i still have to adjust the hood, to get the trim to line up.
Starting to look good, to me at least. Still needs some wiring, side windows and so on.
A friend gave me a six way seat, the small problem was that it was only a one way. Some disassembly and i found two burned coils. 
Since i live in Sweden, and its far between the American car junk yards, i decided to make my own new coils.
I found a pipe with the right diameter. 
Wrapped some glass fibre around the pipe, after i had waxed it with car wax, on the out side of the glass fibre i wrapped a piece of plastic bag to get a smooth surface.
I cut out some paper that i epoxied to the glass fibre "pipe"
Another friend got me some copper wire with the same gauge as the original wire, 400 turns later i had a new coil. to mount on this steel part. yes i found the reason for the "burnout"  it was the toggle switch that had broken and was locked in on position, causing it to overheat.
Over to door glass mounting, i had to replace some steel inside the door to. And no this is not the felt i will use, its the old one used for testing only.
The "funny" thing with the 42 is that the steel channel follows the glass down. i think Ford used this design 40-42.
Starting to fit together and working properly.
 Found this heater  at a swap meet  this summer. I'm told its from a Ford pickup F1 early fifties. 
It was NOS, but a small problem is that it don't have a fan! So I'm planning to mount an external one.
Finally a rear view, things are finally coming together ;-)
Specification Ford 42 Coupe

Type..........Ford flathead 8 BA
Induction....Fenton Manifold 3 Stromberg 81
Camshaft....8BA Truck
Ignition........Original Nos
Exhaust....... Home Built headers.
Heads.......... Original today But I'm looking for some aluminum heads Not Edelbrock or Offenhauser, Got any ??

Frame..................Original C,ed in rear.
Front suspension..Super bell tube axle 4-inch drop axle Posie spring split wishbone.

Rear suspension...Original with With long shackles "Special "aircraft" shock kit tube type this was an old after market kit that i found at a swap meet.

Tires, Front/Rear... Firestone 5,60 by 15 8,20 by 15 Whitewalls.
Wheels.................. Volvo 810 15" rims They have the old Ford bolt pattern.

Drive train:
Transmission........3 speed original gear box.
Rearend...............Original 46 Ford 3,54

Model..................Business Coupe
Modifications........Removed Running boards, mild custom.

Not yet but i think about flat black with flames, suggestions anyone?

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